ZZ4 SBC Small Block Chevy 350 ZZ4 Engine 355 HP - $2300 (Bradenton FL).
#350 chevrolet transmission drivers
$200 (Lakewood)ġ976 Chevy 350 sbc engine long block for rebuild or core.Special drivers side dipstick passenger side oil fill valve cover for van.ran but was tired and burnt oilSmall Block Chevyblock 3970010Chevrolet GMGeneral Motors. 1976 chevy 350 sbc engine for rebuild or core drivers side dipstick.Not trying to ruffle any feathers or shoot any sacred cows and I know I'm a newbie on the board but that's my 2 cents. I've been building my own for years and have yet to personally see that take place.
What about that inherently causes "stuff" to be dislodged? Think about it, your running dirty/old fluid out and filling it with correct fluid at the same time WITHOUT a power flush machine and guess what? That new fluid is running through the very same lines/valving/clutches/band/steels/spags/etc, as the old fluid. One in decent shape that needs serviced or has fluid starting to burn will be fine done correctly. Sure a nearly dead, badly maintained trans with semi-metallic ATF (LOL) will die if you flush it.
This only applies to TH350/400/200R4 and the likes. In DD stuff it works quite well if you want a firmer/quicker shift. I have run Type F in nearly all of my drag racing automatics with fantastic results. In addition, anyone ever run B&M Trick Shift in a GM tranny? Its spendy and its much cheaper by its other name.Type F. Drain and refill several times for most of them.ĭextron/Mercon III is fine for your TH350 and other such models (pre 86).
Also, do your research as some manufactures clearly instruct no to power flush the trans. Done it lots of times under those guidelines and not once had a problem. On a trans in good working order that doesn't have a bunch of gunk in the fluid, flush away, BUT, let the pump in the trans do the work to flush and don't use a power flush machine. The reason being is because those particulates are the only thing in the poor thing causing enough friction to work in the first place! Flush them out and yeah it'll die. If the fluid in it is burnt and has particulates in it then yeah a flush is probably going to cause it to stop working. I saw a heck of a lot of TH400s starved of fluid and burnt up due to a clogged fabric filter (the fords all had screen filters iirc) so the advice above from 68 gold/white seems logical. We always used Type F in all the GM Transmissions -BA Personally I feel that if a fluid change causes problems then it would not have been good enough to trust in the first place and was well on it's way out. So it's a rear guard action by the shops. Customer would scream that "It worked OK when I brought it in!! You guys did something to it!" - and call the State Bureau of Auto Repair. It was quickly learned that changing the fluid (just what is in the pan) would cause some of these vehicles to start malfunctioning. I used to work in a few shops in the early 80's and people used to show up with vehicles with very high mileage and what looked like original fluid all the time. "Not changing the fluid on a trans that hasn't seen a fluid change in a long time or many, many miles makes no sense to me."